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The School of UnLearning: Skin
Skin

Rethinking Skincare

Trusting the wisdom of nature

By Denise Cartwright


Skincare is more advanced than ever, so why is our skin getting worse? Despite increasingly complex skincare regimens, the prevalence of inflammatory conditions like acne and rosacea has been steadily increasing over the past few decades. It’s only getting worse — with each new decade seeing more adults affected by conditions that were once primarily associated with adolescence. What gives?


The New School

We've learned a lot about the skin in the last decade, yet many skincare products on the market don't hold up to the newest science. Increasing rates of acne, eczema, and other inflammatory skin diseases may be the result of daily use of oil-stripping, bacteria-killing skincare products.

No Scrubs

Inflammation is increasingly recognized as a key driver of skin conditions and many other health issues, with some experts suggesting it could be a “unifying theory of disease.” Reducing skin inflammation is crucial for maintaining skin health, but conventional products like foaming cleansers and abrasive exfoliants can actually heighten inflammation. These products often strip natural oils and disrupt the skin’s microbiome, leading to a weakened barrier and inflammatory flare-ups. Moving toward gentler, microbiome-friendly formulations is essential for reducing inflammation and supporting the skin’s overall resilience.

Squeaky’s Freaky

The outdated belief that oil is bad for our skin has fueled an obsession with feeling "squeaky clean." In the U.S., most people wash with sudsing, oil-removing soaps or detergent-based cleansers at least once a day, stripping the skin of its natural oil-based barrier and leaving it inflamed and vulnerable. As a result, we become reliant on synthetic moisturizers to replace what was lost. Once the skin’s protective barrier is compromised, allergens and irritants can penetrate more easily, worsening conditions like acne and eczema.

Flora-Focused

The skin barrier is also home to natural colonies of bacteria and fungi that work with your immune system to regulate, clean, and regenerate the skin. This microbiome is crucial for skin health, but it’s washed away daily with soapy cleansers. While proper hand-washing is essential for hygiene, head-to-toe daily soap use can disrupt the skin’s microbiome.


The Dirt on Soap

Our skin didn’t evolve to require soap to stay clean, and in fact, regular soap bathing only became common in the last century, driven largely by mass marketing campaigns from companies like Procter & Gamble. These ads convinced consumers that frequent soap use was necessary for cleanliness and even happiness, but research today shows that oil and bacteria play essential roles in the skin’s natural life cycle.


Skintuition

Your skin is your largest organ, and it’s both complex and resilient. Effective skincare should support — not interfere with — the skin’s natural regenerative systems. Products should preserve the skin’s ecosystems and moisture barrier, be sustainably sourced, and avoid unethical advertising. Most importantly, they should work to prevent skin issues proactively by fostering balance, rather than simply reacting to symptoms. Our skin has evolved over millions of years to heal and regenerate itself, and it’s time to rethink modern skincare by embracing the wisdom of nature.


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